Friday, June 24, 2016

A Nardò  
Today we cleared out of Maruggio and headed to Susanna's fabulous apartment in Nardò. She is a doctor with a rather fabulous interior design aesthetic that we found on airbnb. The apartment is so beautiful and comfortable, and everyone we asked directions from is so nice that for a moment we thought that we found a future life destination. But then, in ghost town that is Nardò at 4 PM on a Friday afternoon in June, we had second thoughts. Nobody told us the pausa lasts from 1 PM until 5 PM down here! The architecture is stunning. There is truly breathtaking beauty around every corner here and nary a McDonald's in sight, but after a month I don't know if this city slicker could hang. Also in Puglia there is an omnipresent bird that sounds like a car alarm that never stops squawking. I don't know what it's name is, but if I ever meet it I will consider stopping being a vegetarian. Oh and one more thing, either the caldaias or the refrigerators make a clanging sound like Tibetan monks calling people to the dinner table 24/7.

the living room/salotto
so comfy

There are 38 stores in Nardò and I liked two of them. I wanted to get a pair of sporty, beach slides at the shoe store and they asked us to come back (twice) so that the other location could deliver it to them. An hour and a quarter later the transactionw as finally completed. There are a ton of hairdressers, though, and the reason for that became crystal clear as the afternoon progressed: there is nothing else to do here when you are not at the beach.

F standing in the majestic kitchen doorway
Che bella zia!

We had the longest and loveliest conversation with the owner of the ortofrutta and his 82 year old aunt. At first it seemed that they really didn't have any produce, but then the guy started pulling out crates from the little closet space behind the counter which was stacked from floor to ceiling with glorious, colorful veggies of every description. I felt bad that he had to do so much physical labor to find a cavolfiore for us, but he said he was happy to get the workout in. It saved him on gym memberships. They both told us that we should choose Lecce, if anything. We thought they were going to say that it was just like this in the summer, but they said the opposite. They told us you can't judge Nardò based on the summer months because the rest of the year it is dead as a cemetery. I didn't have the heart to tell them that we thought it was as dead as anything I've ever experienced now. I guess tomorrow we will drive around and then go swimming. 

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